Monday, January 16, 2012

THE EXTREME REALITIES OF INDIA


By Promod Puri

The cliché that India is a country of extremes when explored make it so complex and contradictory that all the realistic arguments and statistics just balance out each other leaving a juggernaut of overviews or images about this prominent South Asian nation.

The extremes of India can be as high as Himalayan peaks or as deep as the Indian ocean, and they cover all aspects of the nation and its mass of 1.21 billion people brimful in the space of 3214 kms. from north to south and 2993 kms. from east to west.

And these over a billion people, growing at the rate of 1.34 percent per 2011 estimates, speak over 185 different languages, 29 of these are categorized as "official" meaning each has over one million native speakers. In addition to that there are countless dialects associated with these languages. The plethora of languages and dialects result in multi- multicultural communities each seeking and struggling to retain individual identities.

In addition to linguistic and cultural divide in India, the population is further splintered filling in all the world's major and smaller religions while hundreds of more sectarian complexions akin to these faiths endure to retain their individuality.

Although, Hindus dominate the religious demography with 80.5 percent of the population and comprising the maximum number of sects within it, Muslims form the second largest group with 157 million followers earning the distinction of being third largest Muslims population in the world after Indonesia and Pakistan.

While India is the birthplace and cradle of four religions namely, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism, it was in 52 AD, about 2000 years ago that Christianity arrived in India about the same time it arrived in Europe.

Whereas, all the linguistic, cultural and religious plurality in the country seeks peaceful preserve under the nationalistic jingle of unity in diversity with occasional bursts of communal riots, the real excitement of present-day India lies in its both voluminous changes and no change at all, and in its extreme disparity in all fields and walks of life along with overwhelming and mind blowing figures, which offer cheers as well as despairs.

Among the top stars of the shine India parade are the 57 Indian billionaires out of 1210 in the world, according to the Forbes annual list of ultra rich. Their net worth each ranges from one billion dollars to 22.4 billion.

And this Indian billionaire club membership of course includes industrialist Mukesh Ambani, who is top on the Indian list and 9th in the global rank, whose $2 billion newly-built vertical palace has, beside luxurious features, quite a view of the reality of India at ground zero with sprawling slums whose dwellers represent, according to the World Bank, 41.6 percent of India's population living below the new international poverty line of $1.25(purchasing power parity) per day.

Well leaving aside the Ambani family and other billionaire Indians as personal achievements, the nation itself produces impressive economic growth figures.

Accordingly, India's economy at $1.632 trillion is the 9th largest in the world by GDP (referring to market value of all the goods and services produced in the country), and at $4.057 trillion is fourth largest by PPP. The country's GDP growth is being maintained at around 8 percent, while GDP per capita is $1371 with inflation at 9.72 percent.

India's total merchandise and services import and export trade is worth $606 billion, and it has amassed $308.62 billion as foreign reserve in the last decade or so.

The country, once "the brightest jewel in the British Crown was the poorest nation in the world in terms of per capita income", is now considered an economic power house. And "India, once a recipient nation for foreign aid, could now become together with Brazil, Russia and China to form a fund to stabilize wobbling economies in the Euro zone".

However, before it steps out to relieve the ailing cash-strapped Euronians, who are still managing to get their two square meals on dining table with glass of wine, there is a strong case that India needs to stabilize its own backyard dotted with, as per the World Bank figures, 75.6 percent of the country's population living on less than $2 a day (PPP) and where over 315 million people with their 50 cents a day income eat their hard-earned daily bread squatting on floor.

Despite the fact the poor in India dispense 80 percent of their income on grocery; the spending does not buy them nutritive and protein-rich food.

India has the highest number of malnourished people, at 230 million, and is 94 of 119 in the world hunger index. Forty-three percent of India's children under five are underweight, the highest in the world.

The UN estimates 2.1 million Indian children die before reaching the age of five every year, that is four every minute.

Malnutrition often linked with diseases like diarrhea, malaria, and measles, is due to lack of access in health care and medical services which are related to the problem of poverty.

On the poverty scene India remains at an "abysmal rank" in the UN Human Development Index, it is positioned at 132nd place in 2007-08 in the index.

India does not hide poverty. Or to be more explicit it can't, thanks to its vibrant and alert democratic system which allows social activists and groups, politicians and the media to openly raise the plight of poor, their sufferings, exploitations and struggles in developing as well as stagnant India.

Whereas, both politicians and media extensively cover the poverty scene, the government itself provides the statistics, and that is one bureaucracy which has earned its reputation internationally.

There are thousands of organizations in the country and a few political outfits exclusively working on many fronts to help the poor and creating the awareness of the opportunities available to advance this section of the society to acceptable living standards. As a result, India currently adds 60 to 70 million people from the poor to middle class every year.

An estimated over 300 million Indians now belong to the middle class, one third have emerged from poverty in the last 10 years. And with ambitious expectation, at current rate majority of Indians will be middle class in 2025.

The question is who belongs to the middle class or how much income is needed to get into this section of the society. The demarcation is so elastic that the World Bank has stretched it from $4500 to $20,000 per household per year; whereas, an Indian agency, the National Council for Applied Economic Research, has limited the figure to $4000. And even some say an earning of just $1000 per household of four persons per year is ok to belong to the middle class.

For that inexact and somewhat ambiguous definition, the middle class can be divided into lower-middle-class, middle-middle-class and upper-middle-class. And together this burgeoning part of the population is the major booster to the country's economy exerting its influence on most aspects or facets of India.

The country is bursting with expansion on all fronts, and with ever increasing population India faces huge problems and huge challenges to meet the growing needs of its people whereby a mere glance at statistics provides some clues to discern the nation.

In the field of education, despite its tremendous expansion, 25 percent of the population is illiterate, only 15 percent of Indian students reach high school and just seven percent graduate. According to 2011 census every person above age seven, who can read and write in any language, is considered literate". As such, 75 percent of Indians are literate.

Higher education system in the country is the third largest in the world as India has about 240 universities, three of them namely the Indian Institute of Technology, the Indian Institute of Management and the Jawaharlal Nehru University, are listed among the top 20 varsities in the world by the Times Higher Education list.

There are hundreds of medical and engineering colleges churning out tens of thousands of graduates every year, beside that there are as many poly-technique institutions, and thousands of primary and secondary schools dotting the country all over.

Still many of these learning places are running under-funded and under staff in shabby and disappointing conditions. In a recent study of 189 government-run primary schools 59 percent had no drinking water and 89 percent had no toilets.

India is on the move, and its rail network is the largest in the world with 63,465 kms of rail tracks; it is the fourth heavily used system in the world transferring over six billion passengers and over 310 million tons of freight annually. Despite the colossal rail system connecting practically every nook and corner of the country, still there is so much chronic shortage of trains that not only these are usually jam-packed but a familiar scene of commuters riding on roof-tops of rail compartments is a continual and dangerous embarrassment for the Indian Railways.

About the roads network, it is the third largest in the world with 3,320,410 kilometers length and which include some recently completed national and regional highways while most others are still very old, extremely narrow and very poorly maintained. The latter are the backbone of local and inter-city transportation where except for airplanes, all other types of vehicles, from bullock carts to Mercedes and Jaguars run side by side along with two-wheelers, three-wheelers, cyclists, vans, buses, trucks, etc.

That is the typical urban scene whereby pedestrians as well as dogs and cows also share the street, and it seems everybody or nobody has the right of way, it is a matter of maneuverability as to how to get out of the traffic jam in India's extended rush hours which start early in morning till late evening seven days a week.

There is lot of road construction and improvement going on all over India and that includes building new highways and flyovers to ease congestion. The star of modern India's transportation infrastructure is the so-called Metro passengers-only rail which is amazingly very efficient in its operations and unbelievably clean including the tracks and stations.

Despite tremendous progress in the infrastructure, India has poor record of road safety, around 90,000 people die from road accidents every year, and that is about 13 persons every hour.

Certainly, rails and roads dominate the Indian transportation system, but air travel is perhaps the fastest growing sector in the country with over half a dozen domestic airlines compared to only one not long ago. Their rise can be judged that over $16 billion worth of orders are being placed by them this year for new aircrafts to meet the growing need of air passenger traffic.

As we move on to realize and comprehend India, corruption, black money and unethical, dirty and criminally polluted politics blight the country giving a message of hopelessness if the nation will ever cure itself from these ills.

In 2010 India ranked 87th out of 178 countries in Transparency International's corruption perception index. Corruption is the vehicle by which most of the bureaucracy at all levels of government move or resolve issues. Perhaps one of the biggest contributors to this aspect of Indian economy is the trucker community who according to the Transparency International pays $5 billion in bribes annually to get moving.

India's black money or underground economy is estimated to be $640 billion in year 2008, and certainly it is growing thru corruption and under the table deals. Some news reports claim that "data provided by the Swiss Bank Association Report 2006, showed India has more black money than the rest of the world combined".

The Swiss Bank Association as per its 2006 estimate suggests that India topped the worldwide list for black money with almost $1,456 billion stashed in Swiss banks, this amount to 13th times the country's total external debt.

With those whopping sums of black money, it sure feels like "India is a rich country filled with poor".

With corrupt and black money, there is criminalization of politics as the nexus exist among criminals, politicians and bureaucrats. Criminals enjoy the patronage of politicians of all parties, and the protection of government functionaries. Gang leaders have become political leaders, and over the years criminals have been elected to local bodies, provincial assemblies and even to the national parliament.

Well, the corruption, the black money and the contaminated politics in the country along with pathetic and deplorable widespread poverty, while being denounced, resented and protested as part of the bigger issues facing the nation, are at the same time accepted as inevitable norms in the country, and are as much tolerable as the open garbage littering the streets of India. Still life goes on despite these intentionally ignored visible realities.

However, equally striking realities which are part of the shining India spectrum, are the 806.1 million telephone subscribers and out of this over 500 million cell phone users, escalating 40 percent annually; eighty million internet users; impressive, exciting and trendy big shopping malls; several lanes modern highways, freeways and flyovers; five to seven stars hotels with fluently English-speaking staff; latest models of luxury cars and in plenty; famous brand name expensive clothing and most household accessories; millions of barrels and bottles of finest wines, whiskies and scotch; multistory commercial and residential buildings with ultra modern amenities and luxurious decor, and skyrocketing real estate values which are among highest in the world.

The whole landscape of urban India looks different not only in physical outlook, but the affluence has brought quite a change in the social culture of people as well. The American and European culture seems to be part of the Indian cultural mosaic especially among the young, educated and well-paid professional and the business people.

Sure, that is the new reality of contemporary India which is represented by the rich and the middle class section of the population, but that creates an illusion as well that the nation is a land of enormous prosperity. And this illusion is reinforced by the media thru their various programming, commercials and advertising whereby India looks spotlessly clean and people are quiet well off and happy.

The current disparities, contrasts and extremes of present-day India offer both apprehensions and challenges for the nation.

And keeping in mind the ever growing demands of its surging population along with limited resources and limited land area, the Indian political, social and spiritual activists and leaderships along with its educated and well informed bureaucracy and intelligentsia, all must redefine to replace the popular concepts of progress, development and the standards of living, otherwise the present insane race to seek super economic power status will eventually be disastrous for India and it's environment.

The goal is to seek an egalitarian society with an even overview of India with fewer gaps between its extremes.




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Monday, December 12, 2011

Singer Jagjit Singh

Daily Diary Oct.11
 
Singer Jagjit Singh

In his 40 years of entertaining and alluring singing career,the soft and "silky" voiced Jagjit Singh created a vast following not only in India but among millions of people of Indian origin settled all over the world as well.
 
He created a niche for his somewhat thick but soothing voice perfect to enjoy an evening of simple vocal music along with blending orchestra of few instruments.

His self-composed music and singing style,which usually had a light classical touch in it,can aptly be described as a geet performance though the selection of most of the songs were Urdu compositions.

Was Jagjit Singh a gazal singer?

His fans certainly seem to believe in that and called him "king of gazal". With all sincerity he should have refuted and disclaimed this title as his singing style,certainly sweet and melodious lacked the quirks of gazal singing. In this regard those who blame him for "corrupting the gazal" have a valid point.

Distinction can be easily spotted even by a callow Indian vocal music listener that the singing style of Jagjit Singh and the gazal gayaki mastered by Mehndi Hassan, Ghulam Ali, Begum Akhtar, Mallika Pukhraj of evergreen number,abhi to main javan hoon, fame,and to some extent Talat Mehmood.

Credit is bestowed upon Jagjit Singh that by his so-called simplyfying style he brought gazal to the masses. But in reality gazal rendering is already a simplified version of classical Indian music along with thumri and dadra. And when altered it gets into different musical track but does not remain in the principality of gazal.

In the words of Mallika-e Ghazal Begum Akhtar, "Ghazal shahee dhang se gayee jaye to uska nasha sar chad ke bolta hai" ( if a ghazal is sung in a proper way it can be very intoxicating"). This nasha is seen less and less these days thanks to the new version of Ghazal gayaki in India.


( Rita also contributed to this Daily Diary page )



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GANDHI

Daily Diary Oct 3rd/2011

Is Gandhi relevant today!

Not necessarily. But his message of love,truth and nonviolence is very basic and eternal both at the individual and worldly levels.

This is what has been emphasized in an article in the October 2nd edition of the Indian Express by a grandson of Gandhi.

While love and truth are mostly viewed as saintly sermons,the message of nonviolence is the most popular weapon which Gandhi successfully used,and which got international recognition.

However,the nonviolence doctrine has not been upgraded to the level where it could avoid and resolve major violent conflicts in the world.Wars in Afghanistan or Iraq would not have been necessitated if a genuine one on one dialogue between the leaders could have been tried.

The nonviolence approach does not merely confine to mere strikes or fasts as was effectively practiced by Gandhi. In this age of mass communications and advanced flow of information and viewpoints,violent fighting over conflicts to resolve issues is totally insane.

While Gandhi's nonviolence activism got him international fame and many followers, an important part of his personal life and preferences has been revealed in a very unknown small book by Mr Kris Tangri.

Kris Tangri is an old acquaint of mine and Papaji's longtime friend Shanti's brother,who in his 80's lives a retired life in Victoria,Canada,after a very successful academic career.

Kris reveals in his book that during his university days in India,he fell in love with a fellow student who was the grand daughter of Gandhi.The romance went for quite some time and finally the couple agreed to get married.

But,according to Kris that was not acceptable to Gandhi,for the only reason,he figured out that he was Punjabi getting into Gujarati family,which never happened before.Otherwise,Kris in his young days was quite handsome,educated,intelligent and belonged to reputable and established Punjabi Khatri Hindu family.Sure,he had all the required qualifications to be accepted by Gandhi and his family,but he was not a Gujarati.

Despite,initial no to this proposal,the couple were adamant and the engagement ceremony was performed.At this point,Gandhi came with a condition that marriage could only take place if the couple did not see each other for next seven years as a test of their everlasting love for each other.

Well,the destiny had it's own plan,Kris was to leave for Europe for higher studies,and while abroad,due to lack of fast communications,he lost his contact with the person he loved. Gandhi's scheme worked and his grand daughter in the meantime got married,which Kris learnt when he came back to India.

Well that was Mahatama Gandhi known for his universal fight against racism and prejudice,but in his personal life he was just a Gandhi.






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Sunday, December 11, 2011

comments on two issues

Comments on two issues raised in Indian newpapers
Sept.30/2011
An absorbing and interesting leisure activity,which keeps me connected with the world out of the ashram,is reading the daily newspapers.Here we get the more-than-century old (established 1878) and well edited The Hindu, and ever lively The Indian Express.Also delivered are two vernacular newspapers in amrati-shaped Malaylam language,must be sweet,but when being heard seems delivered by a fast-paced bowler.

Two items which caught my attention the most are in today's edition of the Indian Express.

The first is a large three-column wide top to bottom federal government's Ministry of Human Resource Development ad with the slogan "stop ragging on campuses".And it adds "ragging is a criminal offence and lowers standards of education".

In defining ragging the ad explains it is an act which involves mental/physical/sexual abuse,criminal behavior,undermining human dignity,etc.

The ad lists several serious warnings for those who in the name of institutional custom and seeking some fun to tease and exploit new comers to a college,university and even a high school.It says "ragging in any form is punishable".


It lists a 24-hour,7-days a week toll free anti-ragging help line.

Ragging is certainly a worldwide nuisance which sometimes even results in suicidal deaths by the naive tender-aged victims.The Indian government's anti-ragging campaign and tough measures to curb the annual menace is certainly commendable.

The second item, which appeared as an editorial in the Express,deals with,perhaps one of the most basic and pressing problem most Indians face regularly on a daily basis,is access to workable and hygienic toilet.

The editorial with heading "India's toilet revolution remains an elusive dream",gives some convincing statistics. It begins with an interesting statement which states that according to a worldwide survey to find out which invention made the greatest impact on human beings the flush toilet invention was the most favorite one than even electric bulb or steam engine.

In India,the editorial points out,majority of the population,63.8 crore,still has no access to modern toilet facility."they defecate in the open,accounting to 58 percent of the world population,which does so". In this regard India is number two after Ethiopia with no toilets.

It is certainly a national shame when "people easing themselves on railway tracks and along national highways", the editorial asserts.

Attention India,it's government, the ever vocal media and the basic hygienic- lacking educated middle class,the issue of providing toilets is as pressing as Anna's campaign against corruption and much more urgent than the demand for Chidambaram's resignation.

Ask the man at a railway track which issue is more important,corruption,resignation or toilet,and you get the national survey on the issue.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Significance Of Om

As per Hindu spiritual thinking, Om was the first sound introduced in this universe and perhaps in the whole celestial world.

Who produced that sound, who introduced it and why, all constitute the question the answer to which is naturally directed toward God, the mysterious force or power which is believed to be responsible for this leela.

Well, in addition to being the sound, Om is considered to be the very basis of all that constitute the universe including life and matter. It is indeed a subject of astronomical imagination that from the very sound frequencies of Om that the building blocks of the universe were evolved.

It is like when a matter is broken down to its smallest particles further down to the levels of atoms, electrons and protons and going much further beyond to the limitless end that we can enter into tiniest of the tiniest particles that can only reside in or constitute sound.

And when we reverse the process by gathering sounds to assembling the tiniest particles to congregating electrons, protons and finally creating atoms, the building blocks, that we can produce matter and ultimately the whole universe can be constituted.

If Om is the ultimate end product of atoms in the form of sound then according to the science of quantum physics atoms themselves are made up of whirling mass of radiating energy without any physical structure. So Om is not merely a word but a mass of energy itself.

It is in this phenomenal role as constituting and preceding matter and as vortices of energy that the word Om is considered the most sacred symbol and sound in the Hindu spiritual thought.

In fact, according to Hindu scriptures Om is referred as God in the form of sound. And the symbol was created to represent the incomprehensible all powerful Absolute.
-By Promod Puri

Monday, July 19, 2010

THE JOY OF FIJI TRAVELS

The following travelogue was written back in 2010 when I visited Fiji, a cluster of islands in the South Pacific region. Besides, visiting some of the most famous tourist attractions, the article also briefly mentions about the people of Fiji, especially its vibrant Indian community.  

By Promod Puri

Our years of build-up excitement of Fiji holidays began when we landed at the Nadi (pronounced Nandi) airport at 5.30 in the morning on June 14, 2010.

It was an overnight flight from Los Angeles, but for the time difference, it took an extra calendar day to reach our dream destination.

Nadi, which is on the west coast of Fiji’s biggest island of Viti Levu, is the entry point by air to this South Pacific country.

At the Nadi airport, we were warmly received by the loving relatives of our daughter’s in-laws. Our baggage was dumped in a pickup van, and in another vehicle, our three-week Fiji journey began as we started driving to the capital city of Suva on the east coast of the Island.

The highway from Nadi to Suva, called Queens’ Road, has its own majestic allurement, and it can genuinely claim to be one of the most dazzling drives in the world.

Lush green vegetation on small hills and flatlands intercepted with villages and small settlements; adorn the natural display on the left side of the highway. And on our right was an almost uninterrupted and extended panorama of the exalted and composed the Pacific Ocean, sometimes just a few hundred feet from the winding Queen’s Road.

The west-east Nadi to Suva journey took odd and visually-absorbing three hours when we checked in at the centrally-located Tanoa Inn, just a ten-minute walk from the downtown hub of the city.

After freshening up and with a heavy load of breakfast as we were starving, thanks to the extra-degraded frugal in-flight food service from the “friendliest “ Air Pacific Airlines, that we really re-energized ourselves to venture into Suva, the commercial, a cultural and political center of the South Pacific.

We were in Suva for three days. Despite almost continuous drizzle and rain, quite competitive with Vancouver, that we covered some interesting and highlighted city’s attractions. One of them was the favorite and brisk vegetable and fruit Municipal Market which gave us quite a glimpse of both Natives and Indian Fijians.

Another exciting and recommended place is the Fiji Museum which displays a stirring and adventurous brief history of Native and Indian settlements on the Fiji Islands.

While the migration of Natives to these South Pacific Islands happened centuries ago from Africa or Polynesian group of countries, the Indian settlement is comparatively a recent one which began in the 1800s. The latter was brought to the island of Viti Levu by Britishers as farm laborers under permit regularity called “girmit.”

Their lifestyles and early settlement challenges under the agreement with Britishers of providing temporary immigration and jobs on the vast sugarcane plantations in Fiji give a very fascinating history of Indian migration to this far-away land which was for sure never heard by them.

The “girmit” system, which became quite popular and acceptable, was a sort of an agreement between the British contractors and the poor and destitute Indian laborers. Since the Indians, who were mostly illiterate, could not easily pronounce the word “agreement,” the rhyming word “girmit” was thus coined.

Over almost two hundred years of the history of their establishment in this part of the world and considerably far away from their root country, the Fijian Indians have expertly carved out a distinguished community in itself. The most remarkable aspect of their culture is the evolution and establishment of the Fijian Hindi which is now a distinct and sweet Hindi dialect in itself.

Indians run most of the shops and small businesses in Suva. The city is a typical urban center with few shopping malls and a unique souvenir center to buy exquisitely carved and creatively crafted Fijian handicrafts. However, the most popular and useful item is the bold flowery print “Bula Shirt” which can undoubtedly draw equal attention in a summer outdoor party.

Besides wandering around in Suva, we made two trips to the nearby in-laws’ birthplace and hometown of Nausori. Cordial hospitality from the relatives as part of the Indian traditions over dinner invitations gave us more glimpse of the Fijian Indian way of life.

From Suva, we took a local trans-island comfortable bus to go back towards the west, in the Nadi direction, for our next holiday stopover. The Club Oceanus near the city of Pacific Harbor and nestled amidst a forest and beside a calm river, seemed to be a backpackers’ favorite. It is a superbly and divinely place but turned out to be not much excitement for us as it rained heavily throughout our one- day stay.

The next day like opening a surprise gift-wrap, we saw a cloud-free blue sky as we checked in at the Uprising Resort right on the beach front. And true to its online praises on TripAdvisor and in the Lonely Planet the resort, a well- managed, reasonably priced and sitting on an enticing scenic property, reassured us that Fiji’s waterfront vacations were worth all the planning.

Here at the Uprising, we had our first experience of beachfront living in a “Bure” which is a sort of log house cottage built in traditional Fiji Native style with a thatched roof. It was spacious enough with kitchen, living and bedroom areas including a balcony in the front and back, all under one roof.

The spread-out and the far-reaching Pacific Ocean with gentle non-stop waves going back and forth on the clean, soft, sandy beach were merely some hundred steps away from our “bure.” And that was a real bliss of holidaying in Fiji.

As Uprising molded us with the joy of Fiji voyaging, we put in our next flag on another beach-front resort of Naviti, near the city of Sigatoka, where our daughter’s in-laws, Prem and Savita, joined us to spend one week together to explore and luxuriate more in Fiji’s coastal tourist favorites.

Naviti on the Queen’s Road is really a big resort, and the oceanfront room we got gave us quite a panoramic view of the sea, though the beach is not that big to have a long walk.

Our two-day stay at Naviti was among a large number of winter-escapee vacationers from New Zealand and Australia, who came in groups of large families including children. And at times the resort gave the impression that Disneyland has moved to an ocean-front on the Fiji Islands.

Our journey continued west-bound with next stop at the Sonaisali Beach resort near the city of Nadi.
The resort was just ok with the well-furnished and well-kept room we were in. But the overall stay here was a bit disappointing especially with the unrealistically expensive food and exorbitant extra charges on phone and internet services. The management seemed to be more interested in squeezing money at every step of the way from guests than providing services.

Anyway, a smart move on the part of Prem that he hired a taxi for just 10 Fijian dollars to buy the famous Fiji Gold and Fiji Bitter beer bottles from a nearby market. And we had our favorite Bombay Sapphire that we enjoyed our evenings at the Sonaisali.

In the spirit of having a good time we moved on to our next destination, Lautoka, Fiji’s second biggest city after Suva and just about half an hour drive pass Nadi.

In Lautoka, our stay was close to the downtown area at the Waterfront Tanoa Hotel along the well-maintained sea walkway.

One of the highlights of our stay in Lautoka, beside little shopping and inexpensive but very useful massage treatment, was a dinner visit to one of Prem’s Indian relatives. The freshly-cooked home-made food was indeed a welcome and excellent change, and which gave us the real taste of Indian Fijian cuisine. Another good food experience we had was in Nadi where a brother-in-law of Savita feted us with authentic Fiji treat of “Lovo,” the underground favorite Native Fijian cuisine but with a little Indian touch.

In Lautoka, our dinner host’s daughter and tour helper, Doreen, gave us a quick tour of the city, explaining that the two expensive neighborhoods here are named “Kashmir” and “Shimla.”

Lautoka is a historic town from the Indian point of view as it is here the migrants from India started working in sugarcane farms and sugar mills. But now it is a shopping town as well both for the locals and tourists.

The Lautoka Municipal Market which seems to be a landmark of every Fijian city or town was full of vendors selling locally-grown produce, incredibly cheap. And here one can get dried cava root which when powdered make the traditional and symbolic ceremonial Native drink of cava or nagona.

Another highway picturesque scenic drive from Lautoka to Rakiraki, on the way to our next destination of Nananu-i-Ra Island, was the King Road going from the west to the east on top of the Island.

Besides the ocean view and green mountains on the left and right respectively, the King Road passed thru many sugarcane fields. And we came across several Hindu temples and Indian schools on our way. We halted briefly in the town of Ba, which proudly displays on a big billboard as the “Football Crazy” town, where its landmark is a vast football-shaped structure in the city, perhaps housing a small coffee shop.

We reached Rakraki in about three hours and bypassed the city to reach the marina for our 20-minute boat ride, amidst soothing breeze, to the McDonald Resort on the island of Nananu-i-Ra.

As we had plenty of grocery supplies, including the now addictive Fiji Gold and Fiji Bitter, the self- cooked food by the ladies and washing the dirty dishes by men became a delightful past time activity besides walking around the island and feeding the colorful fish at the resort’s beach.

However, one significant activity was when Prem did some acrobats by impressively showing his revived skill of climbing a tall coconut tree and grabbing a big prized coconut with his two bare hands which we really relished.

Prem and Savita departed from us as they took a bus from Rakiraki in the north to their hometown of Nausori. And we carried on with our journey back toward Nadi to a place called First Landing, where it is said the first people who settled on the Fiji Islands landed here centuries ago and thus reserved their title of being Native Fijians.

We stayed at the Anchorage Resort at First Landing for two days. The narrow-gauge train carrying sugarcane from the fields passes thru the resort which otherwise offers a vast view of the Pacific Ocean as well as the city of Nadi across the bay. Anchorage is another laid-back resort to enjoy activities like light reading while gently swinging in a hammock, walking around or to watch the train pass by with its own rhythm.

The grand final of our Fiji sojourn was on the Bounty and Walu Beach islands, the two among the several isles forming the famous Mamanuca Group of islands in the South Pacific.

Staying at the Bounty and Walu for four and three days respectively was a definite change to experience the taste of island living, which was unlike the big Nananu-I-Ra island or at mainland beachfront hotels in Fiji.

Bounty that was it! The ultimate in relaxed holidays.

In the middle of the ocean, but only 25-minute boat ride from the Nadi Bay, Bounty is a small island with soft sandy beach all around and plants and shrubs in the middle, like a round pizza with all the toppings in the center. The island is so small that one can leisurely walk around it in 20 to 25 minutes.

However, smaller than the Bounty is the Southsea Island, which can be covered in three minutes, but if one takes a brisk little walk, it can be done in just two minutes.

Those seeking real solitude and bountiful of tranquility in the company of crystal clear beach with soothing waves Bounty Island is the place worth coming. And for those looking for adventures in the water sports like scuba diving or snorkeling Bounty offers free equipment and services. We did not indulge in any of these activities. Age factor!

A smooth ride from Bounty to nearby Walu Beach Resort on the Malolo Island, the biggest in the Mamanuca Group, gave us the chance to briefly touchdown the other famous islands like the Beachcomber, Treasure, Castaway (of the film fame ) and Mana. The Walu Beach Resort with its spectacular view of the ocean was our final holiday spot.

And from the Walu Beach, we returned to the real world to Nadi to catch our Vancouver flight.

Well, besides the natural beauty, Fiji is a place to have a good feel of India, but entirely away from India. The shops, the bazaars, the markets, restaurants, and hotels, everywhere you’re roaming about, the Indian presence and influence are all over. Indian programs of news, music, and entertainment are prominently featured on Fiji radio and TV.

The Indian immersion is so much that visitors, especially with the Indian background, feel like if they are touring India, except that Fiji is spotlessly clean.

Fijian people, both Natives and Indians are amiable and cheerful. They love talking, asking questions, want to know “where you’ve come from,” perhaps to relate to their many relatives and friends who have migrated from Fiji to other countries like Canada, the USA, New Zealand and Australia.

Bula is the greeting word to make an acquaintance and start a conversation. With a genuine smile on their faces, they say Bu-----la in an extended and pleasing tone.

Fiji is a relaxed and laidback country, and so are its people. It seems “take-it-easy” is the guideline of Fijian living which was aptly captured by a wall clock we saw in one of the hotel lobbies. It displays in bold print “Fiji Time” as its second, minute and hour hands were missing and all the numbers were jumbled up.

In the relaxed and carefree “Fiji Time” and with Bula smile our rousing Fiji tour was an exciting and enjoyable vacation.

Bula Fiji! We’ll be back.

Thank you Note: Our special thanks to Chandar Prakash and his team of Doreen and Raju of Awesome Holidays in Nadi who arranged all our Fiji resorts stays, some local transportation and boat ride to different islands in Fiji.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Who cares for slumless

People living in the slums of India are indeed lucky as atleast they have some shelter and community to belong to,compared to thousands,if not millions,of those ultra poor men,women,children and infants, sick,hungry and lost who dont have any shelter at all and who spend their days and nights in rain,severe cold or severe hot weather living on the sidewalks of busy streets full of dust and pollution.

The movie Slumdog Millionaire certainly highlights the extreme poverty and plight of those living in slums, but what about those destitutes who dont have any shelter at all.